FLUIDES AND LUBRICANTS

Fluid Disposal

Used fluids such as engine oil, transmission fluid, antifreeze and brake fluid are hazardous wastes and must be disposed of properly. Before draining any fluids, consult with your local authorities; in many areas, waste oil, antifreeze, etc. is being accepted as a part of recycling programs. A number of service stations and auto parts stores are also accepting waste fluids for recycling.

Be sure of the recycling center's policies before draining any fluids, as many will not accept different fluids that have been mixed together.

Fuel and Engine Oil Recommendations

GASOLINE ENGINES

Fuel

All 1997-00 Ford F-Series, Expedition and Lincoln Navigators must use lead-free gasoline with an (R+M)/2 minimum anti-knock index rating of at least 87. The Lightning Pick-up engine requires 91 octane due to the fact that it is high-performance and the engine is supercharged. Use of gasoline with an anti-knock index rating lower than specified can cause persistent, heavy spark knock which can lead to engine damage.

Oil

Recommended oil viscosity usage according to outside air temperature

Click to enlarge

Ford recommends that SAE 5W-30 viscosity engine oil should be used for all climate conditions, however, SAE 10W-30 is acceptable for vehicles operated in moderate-to-hot climates.

When adding oil to the crankcase or changing the oil or filter, it is important that oil of an equal quality to original equipment be used in your truck. The use of inferior oils may void the warranty, damage your engine, or both.

The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) grade number of oil indicates the viscosity of the oil (its ability to lubricate at a given temperature). The lower the SAE number, the lighter the oil; the lower the viscosity, the easier it is to crank the engine in cold weather but the less the oil will lubricate and protect the engine in high temperatures. This number is marked on every oil container.

Oil viscosity's should be chosen from those oils recommended for the lowest anticipated temperatures during the oil change interval. Due to the need for an oil that embodies both good lubrication at high temperatures and easy cranking in cold weather, multigrade oils have been developed. Basically, a multigrade oil is thinner at low temperatures and thicker at high temperatures. For example, a 10W-40 oil (the W stands for winter) exhibits the characteristics of a 10 weight (SAE 10) oil when the truck is first started and the oil is cold. Its lighter weight allows it to travel to the lubricating surfaces quicker and offer less resistance to starter motor cranking than, say, a straight 30 weight (SAE 30) oil. But after the engine reaches operating temperature, the 10W-40 oil begins acting like straight 40 weight (SAE 40) oil, its heavier weight providing greater lubrication with less chance of foaming than a straight 30 weight oil.

Look for the API oil identification label when choosing your engine oil

The API (American Petroleum Institute) designations, also found on the oil container, indicates the classification of engine oil used under certain given operating conditions. Only oils designated for use Service SG, or latest superceding designation, heavy duty detergent should be used in your truck. Oils of the SG type perform may functions inside the engine besides their basic lubrication. Through a balanced system of metallic detergents and polymeric dispersants, the oil prevents high and low temperature deposits and also keeps sludge and dirt particles in suspension. Acids, particularly sulfuric acid, as well as other by-products of engine combustion are neutralized by the oil. If these acids are allowed to concentrate, they can cause corrosion and rapid wear of the internal engine parts.

Synthetic Oil

There are many excellent synthetic and fuel-efficient oils currently available that can provide better gas mileage, longer service life and, in some cases, better engine protection. These benefits do not come without a few hitches, however; the main one being the price of synthetic oil, which is significantly more expensive than conventional oil.

Synthetic oil is not for every truck and every type of driving, so you should consider your engine's condition and your type of driving. Also, check your truck's warranty conditions regarding the use of synthetic oils.

DIESEL ENGINES

Diesel Fuel

Fuel makers produce two grades of diesel fuel, No. 1 and No. 2, for use in automotive diesel engines. Generally speaking, No. 2 fuel is recommended over No. 1 for driving in temperatures above 20°F (-7°C). In fact, in many areas, No. 2 diesel is the only fuel available. By comparison, No. 2 diesel fuel is less volatile than No. 1 fuel, and gives better fuel economy. No. 2 fuel is also a better injection pump lubricant.

Two important characteristics of diesel fuel are its cetane number and its viscosity.

The cetane number of a diesel fuel refers to the ease with which a diesel fuel ignites. High cetane numbers mean that the fuel will ignite with relative ease or that it ignites well at low temperatures. Naturally, the lower the cetane number, the higher the temperature must be to ignite the fuel. Most commercial fuels have cetane numbers that range from 35 to 65. No. 1 diesel fuel generally has a higher cetane rating than No. 2 fuel.

Viscosity is the ability of a liquid, in this case diesel fuel, to flow. Using straight No. 2 diesel fuel below 20°F (-7°C) can cause problems, because this fuel tends to become cloudy, meaning wax crystals begin forming in the fuel. 20°F (-7°C) is often call the cloud point for No. 2 fuel. In extremely cold weather, No. 2 fuel can stop flowing altogether. In either case, fuel flow is restricted, which can result in no start condition or poor engine performance. Fuel manufacturers often winterize No. 2 diesel fuel by using various fuel additives and blends (no. 1 diesel fuel, kerosene, etc.) to lower its winter time viscosity. Generally speaking, though, No. 1 diesel fuel is more satisfactory in extremely cold weather.

No. 1 and No. 2 diesel fuels will mix and burn with no ill effects, although the engine manufacturer recommends one or the other. Consult the owner's manual for information.

Depending on local climate, most fuel manufacturers make winterized No. 2 fuel available seasonally.

Many automobile manufacturers publish pamphlets giving the locations of diesel fuel stations nationwide. Contact the local dealer for information.

Do not substitute home heating oil for automotive diesel fuel. While in some cases, home heating oil refinement levels equal those of diesel fuel, many times they are far below diesel engine requirements. The result of using dirty home heating oil will be a clogged fuel system, in which case the entire system may have to be dismantled and cleaned.

One more word on diesel fuels. Don't thin diesel fuel with gasoline in cold weather. The lighter gasoline, which is more explosive, will cause rough running at the very least, and may cause extensive damage to the fuel system if enough is used.

Engine Oil

Diesel engines require different engine oil from those used in gasoline engines. Besides doing the things gasoline engine oil does, diesel oil must also deal with increased engine heat and the diesel blow-by gases, which create sulfuric acid, a high corrosive.

Under the American Petroleum Institute (API) classifications, gasoline engine oil codes begin with an S, and diesel engine oil codes begin with a C. This first letter designation is followed by a second letter code which explains what type of service (heavy, moderate, light) the oil is meant for. For example, the top of a typical oil can will include: API SERVICES SH, CD. This means the oil in the can is a superior, heavy duty engine oil when used in a diesel engine.

Many diesel manufacturers recommend an oil with both gasoline and diesel engine API classifications.

Ford specifies the use of an engine oil conforming to API service categories of both SH and CD. DO NOT use oils labeled as only SH or only CD as they could cause engine damage.

OPERATION IN FOREIGN COUNTRIES

If you plan to drive your truck outside the United States or Canada, there is a possibility that fuels will be too low in anti-knock quality and could produce engine damage. It is wise to consult with local authorities upon arrival in a foreign country to determine the best fuels available.

Engine

OIL LEVEL CHECK

Grasp the engine oil dipstick and ...

... pull the dipstick out of the tube

Wipe the dipstick clean and replace it into the tube to inspect the oil level

The dipstick has two sides, one has the MIN and MAX markings, and the other has the part number of the dipstick, ensure that the oil level is between the MIN and MAX lines

To remove the oil fill cap, grasp the cap and turn it counter-clockwise until ...

... the cap unscrews from the valve cover. Be sure to place the oil cap in a safe place so as not to lose it

Place a funnel directly into the oil fill port and pour oil into the engine

The engine oil dipstick is located on the driver's side of the engine near that side's exhaust manifold, with the exception of the 7.3L diesel which is on the passenger side.

Engine oil level should be checked every time you put fuel in the vehicle or are under the hood performing other maintenance.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. The engine may be either hot or cold when checking oil level. However, if it is hot, wait a few minutes after the engine has been turned OFF to allow the oil to drain back into the crankcase. If the engine is cold, do not start it before checking the oil level.
3. Open the hood and locate the engine oil dipstick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean, and reinsert it. Make sure the dipstick is fully inserted.
4. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it horizontally, read the oil level. The oil should be between the MIN and MAX mark. If the oil is below the MIN mark, add oil of the proper viscosity through the capped opening of the valve cover.
5. Replace the dipstick, and check the level again after adding any oil. Be careful not to overfill the crankcase. Approximately one quart of oil will raise the level from the low mark to the high mark. Excess oil will generally be consumed at an accelerated rate even if no damage to the engine seals occurs.

OIL & FILTER CHANGE

Loosen the engine oil drain plug. Typically the oil drain plug requires a 16 mm wrench

Loosen the drain plug but do not remove it from the oil pan, make sure to keep constant inward pressure on the drain plug because ...

... the oil drains out rather fast when the drain plug is removed

Loosen the oil filter using a suitable oil filter wrench

After the filter is sufficiently loose, carefully unscrew it using hand power and ...

... remove the filter from the engine

Before installing a new oil filter, lightly coat the rubber gasket with clean oil

The oil and filter should be changed every 5,000 miles (8,000 km) under normal service and every 3,000 miles (5,000 km) under severe service.

The engine oil and oil filter should be changed at the recommended intervals on the Maintenance Chart. Though some manufacturers have at times recommended changing the filter only at every other oil change, Chilton recommends that you always change the filter with the oil. The benefit of fresh oil is quickly lost if the old filter is clogged and unable to do its job. Also, leaving the old filter in place leaves a significant amount of dirty oil in the system.

The oil should be changed more frequently if the vehicle is being operated in a very dusty area. Before draining the oil, make sure that the engine is at operating temperature. Hot oil will hold more impurities in suspension and will flow better, allowing the removal of more oil and dirt.

It is a good idea to warm the engine oil first so it will flow better. This can be accomplished by 15-20 miles of highway driving. Fluid which is warmed to normal operating temperature will flow faster, drain more completely and remove more contaminants from the engine.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely on jackstands.
2. If necessary, remove the skid plate or splash shield.
3. Make sure the oil drain plug is at the lowest point on the oil pan. If not, you may have to raise the vehicle slightly higher on one jackstand (side) than the other.
4. Before you crawl under the vehicle, take a look at where you will be working and gather all the necessary tools, such as a few wrenches or a ratchet and strip of sockets, the drain pan, some clean rags and, if the oil filter is more accessible from underneath the vehicle, you will also want to grab a bottle of oil, the new filter and a filter wrench at this time.
5. Position the drain pan beneath the oil pan drain plug. Keep in mind that the fast flowing oil, which will spill out as you pull the plug from the pan, will flow with enough force that it could miss the pan. Position the drain pan accordingly and be ready to move the pan more directly beneath the plug as the oil flow lessens to a trickle.

Typically the engine oil drain plug requires a 16mm drive tool.

6. Loosen the drain plug with a wrench (or socket and driver), then carefully unscrew the plug with your fingers. Use a rag to shield your fingers from the heat. Push in on the plug as you unscrew it so you can feel when all of the screw threads are out of the hole (and so you will keep the oil from seeping past the threads until you are ready to remove the plug). You can then remove the plug quickly to avoid having hot oil run down your arm. This will also help assure that have the plug in your hand, not in the bottom of a pan of hot oil.

7. Allow the oil to drain until nothing but a few drops come out of the drain hole. Check the drain plug to make sure the threads and sealing surface are not damaged. Carefully thread the plug into position and tighten it with a torque wrench to 9-11 ft. lbs. (11-16 Nm). If a torque wrench is not available, snug the drain plug and give a slight additional turn. You don't want the plug to fall out (as you would quickly become stranded), but the pan threads are EASILY stripped from overtightening (and this can be time consuming and/or costly to fix).
8. To remove the filter, you may need an oil filter wrench since the filter may have been fitted too tightly and/or the heat from the engine may have made it even tighter. A filter wrench can be obtained at any auto parts store and is well-worth the investment. Loosen the filter with the filter wrench. With a rag wrapped around the filter, unscrew the filter from the boss on the side of the engine. Be careful of hot oil that will run down the side of the filter. Make sure that your drain pan is under the filter before you start to remove it from the engine; should some of the hot oil happen to get on you, there will be a place to dump the filter in a hurry and the filter will usually spill a good bit of dirty oil as it is removed.
9. Wipe the base of the mounting boss with a clean, dry cloth. When you install the new filter, smear a small amount of fresh oil on the gasket with your finger, just enough to coat the entire contact surface. When you tighten the filter, rotate it about a quarter-turn after it contacts the mounting boss (or follow any instructions which are provided on the filter or parts box).
10. Install the skid plate or splash shield as necessary.

11. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle, then IMMEDIATELY refill the engine crankcase with the proper amount of oil. DO NOT WAIT TO DO THIS because if you forget and someone tries to start the vehicle, severe engine damage will occur.
12. Refill the engine crankcase slowly, checking the level often. You may notice that it usually takes less than the amount of oil listed in the capacity chart to refill the crankcase. But, that is only until the engine is run and the oil filter is filled with oil. To make sure the proper level is obtained, run the engine to normal operating temperature, shut the engine OFF, allow the oil to drain back into the oil pan, and recheck the level. Top off the oil at this time to the fill mark.

If the vehicle is not resting on level ground, the oil level reading on the dipstick may be slightly off. Be sure to check the level only when the vehicle is sitting level.

13. Drain your used oil in a suitable container for recycling.

Manual Transmission

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) XT-2-QDX or equivalent Mercon ATF fluid (Dexron Mercon III) in the M5OD manual transmission and ZF 5-speed or 6-speed when used in all models except for those with the 6.8L V-10 gasoline or 7.3L diesel engines.

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon synthetic ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) or equivalent in the ZF 5-speed or 6-speed when used in conjunction with the 6.8L V-10 gasoline or 7.3L diesel engines due to the enormous amount of torque these engines creates.

LEVEL CHECK

Manual transmission filler location

Click to enlarge

1. Park the truck on a level surface, turn off the engine, apply the parking brake and block the wheels.
2. Remove the filler plug from the side of the transmission case with a proper size wrench. The fluid level should be even with the bottom of the filler hole.
3. If additional fluid is necessary, add it through the filler hole using a siphon pump or squeeze bottle.
4. Replace the filler plug; do not overtighten.

DRAIN & REFILL

This manual transmission has its drain plug clearly marked

Note how the metal particles cling to this magnetic drain plug bolt

1. Place a suitable drain pan under the transmission.
2. Remove the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain out.
3. Replace the drain plug, remove the filler plug and fill the transmission to the proper level with the required fluid.
4. Reinstall the filler plug.

Automatic Transmission

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) XT-2-QDX or equivalent Mercon ATF fluid (Dexron Mercon III).

LEVEL CHECK

Grasp the dipstick and ...

... remove the dipstick from the tube

Wipe the dipstick clean and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove the dipstick again

The dipstick has two sides, the level should be checked on the side with the cross-hatches. If the level is in the cross-hatched area, do not add fluid

Fluid is added directly into the dipstick tube

Place a suitable funnel into the dipstick tube and ...

... pour the proper fluid into the transmission

The transmission dipstick is typically located near the back of the engine, towards the firewall.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. The transmission should be at normal operating temperature when checking fluid level. To ensure the fluid is at normal operating temperature, drive the vehicle at least 10 miles.
3. With the selector lever in P and the parking brake applied, start the engine.
4. Open the hood and locate the transmission fluid dipstick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean, and reinsert it. Make sure the dipstick is fully inserted.
5. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it horizontally, read the fluid level. The fluid should be between the MIN and MAX mark. If the fluid is below the MIN mark, add fluid through the dipstick tube.
6. Insert the dipstick, and check the level again after adding any fluid. Be careful not to overfill the transmission.

PAN & FILTER SERVICE

The transmission pan is held to the transmission case by retaining bolts. Typically the retaining bolts require a 10mm socket

Remove the retaining bolts on the transmission pan except ...

... for the bolts on the four corners of the pan

Slowly loosen the four corner bolts and lower the pan

As the pan is lowered fluid will begin to pour out

After the fluid is drained out, remove the pan from the transmission

Remove the transmission filter by gently pulling it out of the valve body. Make sure that the O-ring on the filter nipple is removed from the valve body, typically it will stay on the filter nipple

If you happen to find this piece in your transmission pan upon removal, don't panic, it is a dipstick tube plug that is knocked out on the assembly line while the vehicle is being built

Remove the transmission pan gasket from the pan and place it in a safe place, the gasket is reusable

Remove the transmission pan magnets from the pan and ...

... wipe the magnets clean before installing them back into the pan

Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the pan and ...

... the transmission case before installing the gasket and pan onto the case

The fluid should be changed according to the schedule in the Maintenance Intervals chart. If the car is normally used in severe service, such as stop and start driving, trailer towing, or the like, the interval should be halved. If the car is driven under especially nasty conditions, such as in heavy city traffic where the temperature normally reaches 90°F (32°C), or in very hilly or mountainous areas, or in police, taxi, or delivery service, the fluid should be changed according to the severe service schedule.

The fluid must be hot before it is drained; a 20 minute drive should accomplish this.

1. To drain the automatic transmission fluid, the fluid pan must be removed. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the transmission pan, then remove the pan attaching bolts except on the four corners of the pan.
2. Loosen the four attaching bolts on the corners approximately four turns each, but do not remove them.
3. Very carefully pry the pan loose on one corner. You can use a small prybar for this if you work CAREFULLY. Do not distort the pan flange, or score the mating surface of the transmission case. You'll be very sorry later if you do. As the pan is pried loose, all of the fluid is going to come pouring out.
4. Carefully break the other corners loose until fluid is flowing steadily from the entire pan.

If the drained fluid is discolored (brown or black), thick, or smells burnt, serious transmission troubles, probably due to overheating, should be suspected. Your car's transmission should be inspected by a reliable transmission specialist to determine the problem.

5. After the fluid is down flowing, remove one corner bolt and attempt to drain any remaining fluid. Remove the remaining bolts and remove the pan and gasket.

The transmission pan gasket is reusable, do no throw it away.

6. Clean the pan with solvent and allow it to air dry. If you use a rag to wipe out the pan, you risk leaving bits of lint behind, which will clog the dinky hydraulic passages in the transmission.
7. Remove and discard the filter and the O-ring seal if applicable.

To install:

8. Install a new filter and O-ring, if applicable.
9. Position the gasket on the pan, then install the pan. Tighten the bolts evenly and in rotation to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm.). Do not overtighten.
10. Add the recommended automatic transmission fluid to the transmission through the dipstick tube. You will need a long necked funnel, or a funnel and tube to do this. A quick check of the capacities chart later in this Section will reveal the capacity of the transmission in your vehicle. On a first fill after removing the pan and filter, this number should cut into a ¹/₃ and checked on the dipstick before refilling.
11. With the transmission in P, put on the parking brake, block the front wheels, start the engine and let it idle. DO NOT RACE THE ENGINE. DO NOT MOVE THE LEVER THROUGH ITS RANGES.
12. With the lever in Park, check the fluid level. If it's OK, take the car out for a short drive, park on a level surface, and check the level again, as outlined earlier in this section. Add more fluid if necessary. Be careful not to overfill, which will cause foaming and fluid loss.

Clutch Master Cylinder

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Keep the reservoir topped up with Ford Heavy-Duty Brake fluid Ford specification No. ESA-M6C25-A, or equivalent; do not overfill.

LEVEL CHECK

The clutch master cylinder is located just to the right of the brake master cylinder along the firewall

Click to enlarge

The hydraulic fluid reservoirs on these systems are mounted on the firewall. Fluid level checks are performed like those on the brake hydraulic system. The proper fluid level is indicated by a step on the reservoir.

Transfer Case

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) XT-2-QDX or equivalent Mercon ATF fluid (Dexron Mercon III).

LEVEL CHECK

The check/fill and drain plug locations on a typical transfer case

Click to enlarge

1. Park the truck on a level surface, turn off the engine, apply the parking brake and block the wheels.
2. Remove the check/fill plug from the side of the transfer case with a proper size wrench. The fluid level should be even with the bottom of the check/fill hole.
3. If additional fluid is necessary, add it through the check/fill hole using a siphon pump or squeeze bottle.
4. Reinstall the check/fill plug; do not overtighten.

DRAIN & REFILL

Remove the drain plug to drain the fluid out of the transfer case

1. Place a suitable drain pan under the transfer case.
2. Remove the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain out.
3. Replace the drain plug, remove the check/fill plug and fill the transfer case to the proper level with the required fluid.
4. Reinstall the check/fill plug.

Drive Axle (Rear and/or Front)

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Use hypoid gear lubricant SAE 80W90. If the differential is of the limited slip type, be sure and use special limited slip differential additive Ford Friction Modifier C8AZ-19B546-A or equivalent.

LEVEL CHECK

The check/fill plug location—front axle (4 X 4 only)

Loosen the check/fill plug with a 3/8 drive tool and ...

... remove the plug from the axle—front axle (4 X 4 only)

Place a finger into the check/fill plug hole to measure the amount of fluid in the differential —front axle (4 X 4 only)

The check/fill plug location—rear axle

Remove the check/fill plug and check the fluid level by placing a finger into the hole—rear axle

Clean the area around the fill plug, which is located in the housing cover, before removing the plug. The lubricant level should be maintained to the bottom of the fill hole with the axle in its normal running position. If lubricant does not appear at the hole when the plug is removed, additional lubricant should be added.

If the differential is of the limited slip type, be sure and use special limited slip differential additive.

DRAIN AND REFILL

The drain plug location—front axle (4 X 4 only)

Loosen the drain plug with a 3/8 drive tool and ...

... remove the plug from the axle—front axle (4 X 4 only)

Once the drain plug is removed the axle fluid will begin to flow out

Remove the axle cover retaining bolts—rear axle

After the cover bolts are removed, carefully pry the cover loose and ...

... remove the cover from the axle—rear axle

Thoroughly clean the axle housing and cover mating surfaces before reinstalling the cover—rear axle

Fluid is added directly into the rear axle check/fill plug

Drain and refill the front and rear axle housing every 24,000 miles, or anytime the vehicle is operated in deep water. Typically front axles have a drain plug located on the cover. Be sure and clean the area around the drain plug before removing the plug.

The best way to drain a Ford or Dana rear axle is to remove the cover. If desired, you may also remove the oil with a suction gun. Refill the axle housings with the proper oil.

Cooling System

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends a good quality ethylene glycol based or other aluminum compatible antifreeze for use in the vehicles covered by this Manual. It is best to add a ⁵⁰/₅₀ mix of antifreeze and distilled water to avoid diluting the coolant in the system.

LEVEL CHECK

The coolant level should be up to the COLD FILL mark with the engine off and cold

The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment on the inside fenderwells, along the radiator support behind the headlamps, or between the engine and the radiator on some Super-Duty models.

The proper coolant level is slightly above the FULL COLD marking on the recovery tank when the engine is cold. Top off the cooling system using the recovery tank and its marking as a guideline.

Never overfill the recovery tank.

A coolant level that consistently drops is usually a sign of a small, hard to detect leak, although in the worst case it could be a sign of an internal engine leak. In most cases, you will be able to trace the leak to a loose fitting or damaged hose.

Evaporating ethylene glycol antifreeze will have a sweet smell and leave small, white (salt-like) deposits, which can be helpful in tracing a leak.

TESTING FOR LEAKS

Remove the recovery tank cap to allow the pressure tester to be connected to the system

This cooling system requires a threaded adapter for the recovery tank to allow the pressure tester to be connected

Thread the adapter onto the recovery tank

Pump the cooling system with pressure, making sure not to overpressurize the system or damage can occur

Watch the gauge on the system and observe the pressure reading

The pressure rating of the cap is usually found on the top of the cap

If a the fluid level of your cooling system is constantly low, the chances of a leak are probable. There are several ways to go about finding the source of your leak.

The first way should be a visual inspection. During the visual inspection, look around the entire engine area including the radiator and the heater hoses. The interior of the vehicle should be inspected behind the glove box and passenger side floorboard area, and check the carpet for any signs of moisture. The smartest way to go about finding a leak visually is to first inspect any and all joints in the system such as where the radiator hoses connect to the radiator and the engine. Another thing to look for is white crusty stains that are signs of a leak where the coolant has already dried.

If a visual inspection cannot find the cause of your leak, a pressure test is a logical and extremely helpful way to find a leak. A pressure tester will be needed to perform this and if one is not available they can be purchased or even rented at many auto parts stores. The pressure tester usually has a standard size radiator cap adapter on the pressure port, however, other adapters are available based on the size of the vehicle's radiator neck or recovery tank depending on where the pressure tester connects. when pressurizing the cooling system, make sure you do not exceed the pressure rating of the system, which can be found on the top of the radiator cap, however, if you have and aftermarket or replacement cap that does not have the rating on it, 16psi is a standard to use but some vehicles are higher. Overpressurizing the system can cause a rupture in a hose or worse in the radiator or heater core and possibly cause an injury or a burn if the coolant is hot. Overpressurizing is normally controlled by the radiator cap which has a vent valve in it which is opened when the system reaches it's maximum pressure rating. To pressure test the system:

The pressure test should be performed with the engine OFF.

1. Remove the radiator or recovery tank cap.
2. Using the proper adapter, insert it onto the opening and connect the pressure tester,
3. Begin pressurizing the system by pumping the pressure tester and watching the gauge, when the maximum pressure is reached, stop.
4. Watch the gauge slowly and see if the pressure on the gauge drops, if it does, a leak is definitely present.
5. If the pressure stayed somewhat stable, visually inspect the system for leaks. If the pressure dropped, repressurize the system and then visually inspect the system.
6. If no signs of a leak are noticed visually, pressurize the system to the maximum pressure rating of the system and leave the pressure tester connected for about 30 minutes. Return after 30 minutes and verify the pressure on the gauge, if the pressure dropped more than 20%, a leak definitely exists, if the pressure drop is less than 20%, the system is most likely okay.

Another way coolant is lost is by a internal engine leak, causing the oil to be contaminated or the coolant to be burned in the process of combustion and sent out the exhaust. To check for oil contamination, remove the dipstick and check the condition of the oil in the oil pan. If the oil is murky and has a white or beige "milkshake" look to it, the coolant is contaminating the oil through an internal leak and the engine must be torn down to find the leak. If the oil appears okay, the coolant can be burned and going out the tailpipe. A quick test for this is a cloud of white smoke appearing from the tailpipe, especially on start-up. On cold days, the white smoke will appear, this is due to condensation and the outside temperature, not a coolant leak. If the "smoke test" does not verify the situation, removing the spark plugs one at a time and checking the electrodes for a green or white tint can verify an internal coolant leak and identify which cylinder(s) is the culprit and aiding your search for the cause of the leak. If the spark plugs appear okay, another method is to use a gas analyzer or emissions tester, or one of several hand-held tools that most professional shops possess. This tools are used to check the cooling system for the presence of Hydrocarbons (HC's) in the coolant.

DRAIN & REFILL

Open the valve on the petcock until the coolant begins to flow out of the drain hole

Follow any instructions about coolant system service found on labels in the engine compartment

Click to enlarge

Grasp the recovery tank cap and turn it counterclockwise to ...

... remove it from the recovery tank

Pour the proper coolant to water mixture directly into the recovery tank

Ensure that the engine is completely cool prior to starting this service.

1. Remove the recovery tank or radiator cap.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Place a drain pan of sufficient capacity under the radiator and open the petcock (drain) on the radiator.

Plastic petcocks easily bind. Before opening a plastic radiator petcock, spray it with some penetrating lubricant.

4. Drain the cooling system completely.
5. Close the petcock.
6. Remove the drain pan.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Determine the capacity of the cooling system, then properly refill the system with a ⁵⁰/₅₀mixture of fresh coolant and distilled water.
9. Leave the recovery tank or radiator cap off to aid in bleeding the system.
10. Start the engine and allow it to idle until the thermostat opens (the upper radiator hose will become hot). The coolant level should go down, this is normal as the system bleeds the air pockets out of the system.
11. Refill the system with coolant to the proper level.
12. Turn the engine OFF and check for leaks.

FLUSHING & CLEANING THE SYSTEM

Periodically remove all debris from the radiator fins

1. Drain the cooling system completely as described earlier.
2. Close the petcock and fill the system with a cooling system flush (clean water may also be used, but is not as efficient).
3. Idle the engine until the upper radiator hose gets hot.
4. Allow the engine to cool completely and drain the system again.
5. Repeat this process until the drained water is clear and free of scale.
6. Flush the recovery tank with water and leave empty.

7. Fill and bleed the cooling system as described earlier.

Brake Master Cylinder

The brake master cylinder reservoir is located under the hood, attached to the brake booster and firewall on the driver's side of the engine compartment.

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

When adding fluid to the system, ONLY use fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. DOT 3 brake fluid will absorb moisture when it is exposed to the atmosphere, which will lower its boiling point. A container that has been opened once, closed and placed on a shelf will allow enough moisture to enter over time to contaminate the fluid within. If your brake fluid is contaminated with water, you could boil the brake fluid under hard braking conditions and lose all or some braking ability. Don't take the risk, buy fresh brake fluid whenever you must add to the system.

LEVEL CHECK

The brake fluid level should not be above the MAX line on the side of the reservoir

Wipe the master cylinder reservoir clean before ...

... removing the reservoir cap

Pour brake fluid from a sealed container directly into the reservoir

Observe the fluid level indicators on the master cylinder; the fluid level should be between the MIN and MAX lines.

Before removing the master cylinder reservoir cap, make sure the vehicle is resting on level ground and clean all dirt away from the top of the master cylinder. Unscrew the cap and fill the master cylinder until the level is between the MIN and MAX lines.

If the level of the brake fluid is less than half the volume of the reservoir, it is advised that you check the brake system for leaks. Leaks in a hydraulic brake system most commonly occur at the wheel cylinder and brake line junction points.

Power Steering Pump

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) XT-2-QDX or equivalent Mercon ATF fluid (Dexron Mercon III).

LEVEL CHECK

The power steering pump reservoir is marked with a MIN and MAX line on the side. The fluid level should be between these marks

Remove the reservoir cap and ...

... pour the proper fluid directly into the reservoir, but make sure you do not overfill the reservoir

1. Start the engine and let id idle for 2 or 3 minutes.
2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and left several times to help warm the fluid and force it circulate.
3. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. It should be at the FULL COLD mark.
4. If the level is low, fill the reservoir up to the FULL COLD mark with the appropriate fluid, but do not overfill the system or problems in the system can occur.

Chassis Greasing

The only component that require greasing is the idler arm—4 X 4 F-150

There are several components in the front end and steering that require periodic lubrication. Typically these components include the tie rod ends, ball joints, pitman arm, and several other components in the steering system such as an idler arm or center link that vary by model. Any greaseable item will be identifiable by a grease or Zerk® fitting on the component.

Some components are permanently lubricated during manufacture and do not need periodic maintenance. These components can be identified by the lack of a grease fitting.

Inspect each component to be lubricated. Replace components with torn/ruptured seals. Damaged seals will eventually leak grease or allow contaminates to enter and eventually cause component failure and/or seizure.

Body Lubrication and Maintenance

LUBRICATION OF HINGES, LATCHES & LOCKS

Periodically it is recommended that the hinges, latches and locks be lubricated with a suitable grease. A quality white lithium grease is the best choice to lubricate these components. White lithium grease can be bought in a spray can with a long application tube for reaching into latches, locks, and hinges to avoid getting the grease all over the place. A good time to accomplish this task is on every oil change.

VEHICLE WASHING

The vehicle should be washed at regular intervals to remove dirt, dust, insects, and tar and other possibly damaging stains that can adhere to the paint and may cause damage. Proper exterior maintenance also helps in the resale value of the vehicle by maintaining its like-new appearance.

It is particularly important to frequently wash the vehicle in the wintertime to prevent corrosion, when salt has been used on the roads.

There are many precautions and tips on washing, including the following:

• When washing the vehicle, do not expose it do direct sunlight.
• Use lukewarm water to soften the dirt before you wash with a sponge, and plenty of water, to avoid scratching.
• A detergent can be used to facilitate the softening of dirt and oil.
• A water-soluble grease solvent may be used in cases of sticky dirt. However, use a washplace with a drainage separator.
• Dry the vehicle with a clean chamois and remember to clean the drain holes in the doors and rocker panels.
• If equipped with a power radio antenna, it must be dried after washing.

• Tar spots can be removed with tar remover or kerosene after the vehicle has been washed.
• A stiff-bristle brush and lukewarm soapy water can be used to clean the wiper blades. Frequent cleaning improves visibility when using the wipers considerably.
• Wash off the dirt from the underside (wheel housings, fenders, etc.).
• In areas of high industrial fallout, more frequent washing is recommended.

• When washing or steam cleaning the engine, avoid spraying water or steam directly on the electrical components or near the distributor or ignition components. After cleaning the engine, the spark plug wells should be inspected for water and blown dry if necessary.
• Special vehicle washing detergent is the best to use. Liquid dishwashing detergent can remove wax and leave the vehicle's paint unprotected and in addition some liquid detergents contains abrasives which can scratch the paint.
• Bird droppings should be removed from the paintwork as soon as possible, otherwise the finish may be permanently stained.

Automatic vehicle washing is a simple and quick way to clean your vehicle, but it is worth remembering that it is not as thorough as when you yourself clean the vehicle. Keeping the underbody clean is vitally important, and some automatic washers do not contain equipment for washing the underside of the vehicle.

When driving into an automatic was, make sure the following precautions have been taken:

• Make sure all windows are up, and no objects that you do not want to get wet are exposed.
• In some cases, rotating the side view mirrors in can help to avoid possible damage.
• If your vehicle is equipped with a power antenna, lower it. If your vehicle has a solid mounted, non-power antenna, it is best to remove it, but this is not always practical. Inspect the surroundings to reduce the risk of possible damage, and check to see if the antenna can be manually lowered.

WAXING

Before applying wax, the vehicle must be washed and thoroughly dried.

Waxing a vehicle can help to preserve the appearance of your vehicle. A wide range of polymer-based vehicle waxes are available today. These waxes are easy to use and produce a long-lasting, high gloss finish that protects the body and paint against oxidation, road dirt, and fading.

Sometimes, waxing a neglected vehicle, or one that has sustained chemical or natural element damage (such as acid rain) require more than waxing, and a light-duty compound can be applied. For severely damaged surfaces, it is best to consult a professional to see what would be required to repair the damage.

Waxing procedures differ according to manufacturer, type, and ingredients, so it is best to consult the directions on the wax and/or polish purchased.

INTERIOR CLEANING

Upholstery

Fabric can usually be cleaned with soapy water or a proper detergent. For more difficult spots caused by oil, ice cream, soda, etc., use a fabric cleaner available at most parts stores. Be sure when purchasing the cleaner to read the label to ensure it is safe to use on your type of fabric. A safe method of testing the cleaner is to apply a small amount to an area usually unseen, such as under a seat, or other areas. Wait a while, perhaps even a day to check the spot for fading, discoloring, etc., as some cleaners will only cause these problems after they have dried.

Leather upholstery requires special care, it can be cleaned with a mild soap and a soft cloth. It is recommended that a special leather cleaner be used to clean but also treat the leather surfaces in your vehicle. Leather surfaces can age quickly and can crack if not properly taken care of, so it is vital that the leather surfaces be maintained.

Floor Mats and Carpet

The floor mats and carpet should be vacuumed or brushed regularly. They can be cleaned with a mild soap and water. Special cleaners are available to clean the carpeted surfaces of your vehicle, but take care in choosing them, and again it is best to test them in a usually unseen spot.

Dashboard, Console, Door Panels, Etc.

The dashboard, console, door panels, and other plastic, vinyl, or wood surfaces can be cleaned using a mild soap and water. Caution must be taken to keep water out of electronic accessories and controls to avoid shorts or ruining the components. Again special cleaners are available to clean these surfaces, as with other cleaners care must taken in purchasing and using such cleaners.

There are protectants available which can treat the various surfaces in your vehicle giving them a "shiny new look", however some of these protectants can cause more harm than good in the long run. The shine that is placed on your dashboard attracts sunlight accelerating the aging, fading and possibly even cracking the surfaces. These protectants also attract more dust to stick to the surfaces they treat, increasing the cleaning you must do to maintain the appearance of your vehicle. Personal discretion is advised here.

Wheel Bearings

REPACKING

Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Read the package labels and be careful not to mix the two types. If there is any doubt as to the type of grease used, completely clean the old grease from the bearing and hub before replacing.

Before handling the bearings, there are a few things that you should remember to do and not to do.

DO the following:

• Remove all outside dirt from the housing before exposing the bearing.
• Treat a used bearing as gently as you would a new one.
• Work with clean tools in clean surroundings.
• Use clean, dry gloves, or at least clean, dry hands.
• Clean solvents and flushing fluids are a must.
• Use clean paper when laying out the bearings to dry.
• Protect disassembled bearings from rust and dirt. Cover them up.
• Use clean, lint-free rags to wipe the bearings.
• Keep the bearings in oil-proof paper when they are to be stored or are not in use.
• Clean the inside of the housing before replacing the bearing.

Do NOT do the following:

• Do not work in dirty surroundings.
• Do not use dirty, chipped or damaged tools.
• Do not work on wooden work benches or use wooden mallets.
• Do not handle bearings with dirty or moist hands.
• Do not use gasoline for cleaning. Use a safe solvent.
• Do not spin dry bearings with compressed air. They will be damaged.
• Do not use cotton waste or dirty cloths to wipe bearings.
• Do not scratch or nick bearing surfaces.
• Do not allow the bearing to come in contact with dirt or rust at any time.

The front wheel bearings require periodic maintenance. A premium high melting point grease meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B or equivalent must be used. Long fiber type greases must not be used. This service is recommended every 90,000 miles (144,000 km) for normal maintenance and every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) for severe service.

For information on Wheel Bearing removal and installation, refer to Section 8 of this manual.

1. Remove the wheel bearing.
2. Clean all parts in a non-flammable solvent and let them air dry.

Only use lint-free rags to dry the bearings. Never spin-dry a bearing with compressed air, as this will damage the rollers.

3. Check for excessive wear and damage. Replace the bearing as necessary.

Packing wheel bearings with grease is best accomplished by using a wheel bearing packer (available at most automotive parts stores).

4. If a wheel bearing packer is not available, the bearings may be packed by hand.
   1. Place a "healthy" glob of grease in the palm of one hand.
   2. Force the edge of the bearing into the grease so that the grease fills the space between the rollers and the bearing cage.
   3. Keep rotating the bearing while continuing to push the grease through.
   4. Continue until the grease is forced out the other side of the bearing.
5. Place the packed bearing on a clean surface and cover it until it is time for installation.
6. Install the wheel bearing.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.